USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory - WINTER STATEMENT 2009/2010

Please check road access and conditions before you come!  The road to Bunny Flat (7000 ft.) closes occasionally in winter which will add a lot more time to your climb.  Usually you can at least get to the McBride area at 4800 ft. where the road is gated, and head up 4-6 hours to the Horse Camp cabin in lower Avalanche Gulch (7900 ft.).  Get directions for this extended approach before you head up.  The road was closed this season from 1/20 to 2/16.  Today (2/22/10), the road is open to Bunny Flat.

CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING: 
♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Friday from 8-4:30pm.  Annual summit passes for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) are available at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento.  Reservations are not required.  
  ♦Check Current weather forecast. 
  ♦WARM clothing – NO COTTON - carry the ten essentials! 
  ♦Overcoming summit fever and knowing when to turn around.

Please check the weather forecast before you climb.

Panorama of Mt. Shasta and Black Butte from Shasta valley, NW of Mt. Shasta.  Photo by Mike Hupp/Dawn Patrol Images.

Winter climbing is nothing like the spring or summer climbs.  Be prepared to post-hole on route which will slow you down.  Storms come in earlier on the mountain than they do in town, so don't try to beat the storm based on the forecast for town.  Be prepared for strong winds (60-100 mph winds at tree line - 8000 ft. - occur several times a month) and frost bite.  Many a tent has been destroyed or blown off Mt. Shasta.  So think about camping at lower elevations near tree line to lower the potential for hurricane speed winds which occur at the typical spring and summer high camps during winter.  Wind chill temperatures on the upper mountain are frequently -20 to -50F, so a balaclava and goggles are recommended.

We have had avalanche fatalities with climbers a few times over the years, so get current information before you start!  Your personal library of mountaineering experience should also include avalanche awareness and rescue, and safe route finding.  This is NOT a good time for first time mountaineers unless you are with a guide.  There are 3 permitted Outfitters on Mt. Shasta:  Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, and Sierra Wilderness Seminars.

The routes chosen by most winter climbers are Casaval Ridge and Green Butte/Sargents Ridge as they have lower exposure to avalanche pathways.  They do, however, cross some avalanche starting zones, so come educated on how to identify the signs of avalanche danger.  Like all routes, they do have the potential for long falls, so it should be second nature to self arrest with an ice axe.  The best option in winter is to be flexible and climb after 1-2 weeks of stable high pressure to allow the snow pack to settle and the avalanche danger to decrease.

The Bunny Flat trailhead stays open year round.  The road to Bunny Flat is plowed, but not on a regular schedule, and is sometimes closed for several days during storms.  All of the other trailheads on Mt. Shasta will be closed in the fall and are buried in snow during the winter and spring, adding long approaches.  You are still welcome to access the Mt. Shasta Wilderness from any of the trailheads, but come by the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Stations for permits and information, and be prepared for long approaches over unplowed, snow covered roads (4-16 miles).

Wilderness Permits, Summit Passes, and Pack Out Bags are available at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations and at Bunny Flat.  All other trailheads are closed for the season.   Carry extra fuel to melt snow up higher as no running water exists in winter months.  We recommend that you do not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather.  Check the NWS forecast for the latest.

Horse Camp:  The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation.  The composting toilet and spring water are closed during the winter months (closed 11/24/09), but are turned on during spring, summer and fall.  The cabin is open year round and all are welcome!  Make sure you close the door when you leave...  

ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable winter season.

If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel.

Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-5am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter, spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.

Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September.  There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 

THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for your party.