Artwork: John Muir and Mt. Shasta, drawing by Dan Towner, 2004
 

"A climb of Mt. Shasta is a very special experience.  It presents each individual with the unique opportunity to visit the Mt. Shasta Wilderness, part of the National Wilderness Preservation System...We encourage you to enter into the spirit of wilderness and humbly and carefully make your way through this landscape, ever mindful of the special privilege you have to realize yourself as a creature in harmony with wildness, pursuing the challenge and reward of personal growth.  On your journey to the summit, travel lightly and quietly on the land.  Experience the timelessness of rock and ice, the dormant volcanic energy of a sleeping giant, and the indifference of eternity.  Come prepared to climb a major mountain."
-George Duffy, retired Climbing Ranger

Greetings!
Welcome to the Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory

This advisory is updated periodically throughout the winter and bi-weekly during climbing season, mid-April through August. Please also check the avalanche advisory for winter/spring climbs!                 

• DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS...
• Human waste packout bags are REQUIRED in the Mt. Shasta Wilderness area. Packout bags are available at all trailheads, ranger stations and The 5th Season and Shasta Base Camp in Mt. Shasta. Please packout your human waste and trash...the mountain and rangers really appreciate it!

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USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory - Updated Wednesday, May 16th

CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING MANDATORY ITEMS: 

♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Friday from 8-4:30pm. Annual summit passes are available for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at all open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento.  Reservations are not required.
Please click here for further information on wilderness permits/summit passes and other information...
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    WINTER/SPRING 2012

The Bunny Flat trailhead stays open year round. The road to Bunny Flat is plowed, but not on a regular schedule, and is sometimes closed for several days during storms. All of the other trailheads on Mt. Shasta are closed in the fall and buried in snow during the winter and spring. You are still welcome to access the Mt. Shasta Wilderness from any of the trailheads, but come by the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Stations for permits/passes and road information or feel free to call. 530-926-4511 for more information.  Be prepared for long approaches over unplowed, snow covered roads (4-16 miles). Please check the avalanche advisory spring statement before your climb.
 

Green Butte ridge with Sargents ridge on horizon line...Photo: Mike Hupp

CONDITIONS: December through February provided very little precipitation on Mt Shasta as high pressure dominated the eastern pacific and most storms tracked to the north.  The storm doors opened in March, however, bringing our seasonal precipitation average up from 37% to 70% currently and our snowpack to near-average for this time of year. Weather stations above 6500 feet have recorded over 100 inches of new snow in the last month with storms continuing to keep the average depth at 8000 feet on Mt Shasta between 10 and 13 feet.  High winds distribute the snow unevenly above treeline so climbers may find shallower snow depths along ridgelines and much deeper pockets of accumulation on leeward slopes.  What does all this mean?  Climbing conditions on Mt. Shasta that were looking dismal earlier this season are now looking good!  If spring temperatures remain average, climbing conditions should be good (meaning good snow coverage) through June and maybe July. Generally, as the snow melts, climbing conditions worsen. While good climbing conditions consist of smooth, hard snow in the morning, this also means that slips/falls are of high consequence in steeper terrain. Every year many climbers slip and fall 1,500+ ft. down Avalanche Gulch and other routes. An ice axe, crampons and helmet are required for safe climbing and it is essential that one know how to use this equipment. Self arrest needs to be a mandatory skill should one slip and fall. Please use caution...  Rock fall is often active on the mountain and helmets offer additional protection.  Always watch above for falling debris. 
At a height of 14,179 ft. Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak, and it is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly.  It can quickly develop into the much more serious and deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema.  Stop, take a break, and if symptoms do not improve, descend, descend, descend.  SELF RESCUE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED should one become injured or sick. Always check the weather forecast before you climb...  
We recommend that you do not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become   lost, injured or died in poor weather.    

Always check the weather forecast before climbing and monitor the conditions as you climb.
                                         Check the NWS forecast for the latest.

Photo: Garret Smith


Route Info:

Avalanche Gulch– John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead: (Gate closed at Bunny Flat) This route is currently in great shape.  Due to perfect Spring weather the past couple of weeks the snow pack has transitioned into perfect condition for climbing and skiing. The snow above Lake Helen will be firm and fairly smooth in the morning hours making for hazardous conditions if one should fall.  Self arrest with your mountain axe must happen immediately. Avalanche danger can be a factor to consider this time of year and should always be assessed (surface sloughs/slabs, warm days). The summer trail is fully buried to Lake Helen. Rock fall and ice fall is present so PLEASE, wear a helmet, and KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE AND CRAMPONS.  Always keep an eye above for rock fall or ice fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. The best route through Redbanks (RB) is the snow filled chute on the right side of the Redbanks. The Notch, on the upper right side of RB is another option. Traveling onto the Konwokiton Glacier is NOT recommended as the snow bridges over the bergshrund are likely to be thin and weak from lack of snow this winter.  The spring at Horse Camp is dug out, but NOT running, so bring extra fuel to melt snow for water. The toilets are OPEN however at Horse Camp - pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste elsewhere on the mountain. Carry the Ten Essentials.  Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS.   Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are on our web page under "Links".

Casaval Ridge, Green Butte/Sargents Ridge via Bunny Flat Trailhead: Casaval Ridge is in great shape with plenty of snow coverage.  Postholing can be an issue late in the afternoon, and avalanche danger should always be assessed this time of year. This route is a beautiful climb, physically challenging and is a good alternative for those with prior climbing experience.  Green Butte/Sargents is in good shape. The rock spine above 11,600 can push the route onto the steep west slope with some necessary route finding through the rock bands necessary to stay on snow.  Be careful not to dislodge rocks onto the Avalanche Gulch climbers below you! This route doesn't see great conditions often, and is a challenge and not for the weak of heart. Technical difficulties are usually not a problem for climbers on these routes however both of these routes have a lot of exposure for long falls, and are better off for experienced climbers.

Cascade Gulch, Shastina and West Face via Bunny Flat Trailhead:   Although many books list the Cascade route as easy, it also has a lot of exposure to crevasses where it crosses the upper Whitney glacier, even when minimized to ¼ mile.  Glacier travel training is recommended.  Shastina is covered with snow and the skiing is good – approach from Hidden Valley/Cascade Gulch and always assess avalanche potential this time of year.  The West Face is in great shape for climbing, and the skiing is good. Deep snow fills the West Face gully, though one often encounters short sections of rock along the route due to scouring by NW winds. The summer trail to Hidden Valley is covered in snow so know where you are going. No water is available in Hidden Valley.

Sand Flat Trailhead: Closed

Ski Bowl Trailhead: Closed

For trailhead access or route condition information, please call the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station front desk at 530-926-4511 or speak directly to a climbing ranger at 530-926-9614.
Thanks!

Northgate Trailhead: Open. Summit passes, wilderness permits and packout bags are available at the trailhead. Route condition for the Hotlum/Bolam ridge and glacier are good. Be advised that crevasses are mostly snow covered this time of year, and snow bridges over them will be week as the sun warms the snow in the afternoon. This route is better for more experienced climbers with glacial travel experience. The last 4 miles of the road to the Northgate trailhead have suffered some erosional damage. A subaru or higher clearance vehicle is recommended... Leave your sports car at home!

Brewer Creek Trailhead: Closed. Route conditions looks good. Access to the trailhead is prolonged due to miles of snow covered roads. One can drive 9.5 miles past Pilgrim Cr. snowmobile park to the junction of the 19 road and 42N02. This leaves a LONG approach to trailhead still (7 road miles). Best to wait until the snow melts further. Call our office for more details. Please get your summit pass and wilderness permit at the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. Bathrooms are open however and packout bags are available inside.

Clear Creek Trailhead: Closed. The Clear Cr. Route looks good, and is almost entirely snow covered.  There is, however, still 2.5 miles of snow covered road before the trailhead. Please get your summit pass and wilderness permit at the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. Bathrooms are open however and packout bags are available inside.
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Horse Camp:  The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation.  The composting toilet and spring water are closed during the winter months, but are turned on during spring, summer and fall.  The cabin is open year round and all are welcome, however one cannot sleep inside the cabin except in emergencies!  Make sure you close the door when you leave... DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED ON HORSE CAMP/SIERRA CLUB PROPERTY, AS WELL AS IN THE WILDERNESS. THANK YOU!
 
ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable season.
If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel.

Hotlum Glacer, September 2011  [Photo: Garret Smith]

Tips:Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather (afternoon thunderstorm buildups are common) and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-5am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a down jacket, balaclava and extra gloves are a good idea in winter, spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. Anchor your tent well wherever you camp! Tents can and do blow away frequently.  Do not plan to camp above treeline if you do not have anchor lines for your tent! The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.

Best time to climb:The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September.  There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 
THE TEN ESSENTIALS-Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for your party.

A note on wind...  Mount Shasta stands by itself in the atmosphere.  There is nothing anywhere near its' height for over a hundred miles.  Because of that, Mt. Shasta creates a lot of unique wind conditions.  Especially during the winter, spring and early summer, the snow covered mountain provides very little friction for accelerating winds bending around and over this topographic anomaly.  Winds over 100 mph at tree line (8000 ft.) are common.  It's anyone's guess what the winds at 14,000 ft. could be when instruments measure 150 mph winds 6000 ft. lower down on the mountain.  Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance.  Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl (and cry!).  Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and destroy well anchored tents.  The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere, and tend to occur in front of, and behind, storms.  The lowest winds occur when the center of a high pressure is over the Mt. Shasta area.  Take this seriously as wind has resulted in searches, injuries and fatalities.
 

Cartoon images showing the Beaufort Wind Scale. (courtesy US Merchant Marine Academy) 
Take wind seriously - it could be your life!