08-20-2016-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

North Gate trailhead is OPEN and summit passes, wilderness permits, and pack-out bags are available. The road is rough. Drive slow and careful and a 2wd vehicle can make it in.

Late season conditions are in affect on this route. This means rockfall, ice patches and hard snow conditions. Glissading has been difficult due to firm snow/ice patches. The mountains climbing routes are shifting toward poor conditions for most routes. That said, if you still choose to climb, this route is probably the best at this point. Please note: This route is not for novice mountaineers. One must have solid ice axe and crampons skills and glacial travel skills as well, especially if off route or attempting the nearby glacier routes. Don't forget your HELMET also! Flowing water is available with no worms this year, however you should still treat the water. The snow line is sitting about 10,000 to 11,000 feet currently. The upper Bolam chute is completely melted out between the rabbit ears and the shark's tooth. The normal high camp at 9,700 feet is melted out with dry camping.  

For the Hotlum glacier, crevasses are starting to show. Snow bridges will be weak with the hot summer sun. There is also water running at the Hotlum Hilton area. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hotlum/Bolum ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered as of yet. All north side routes are recommended for more experienced climbers.

The bergschrund at the bottom of the "ramp" is showing.  Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp. Some crevasses on the Hotlum glacier may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue during spring/early summer as the warm temperatures and sun thin the bridges.  Self arrest skills are a must on this route. If icy patches are encountered they can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro.

Come on into the Mt Shasta Ranger Station for a great visual powerpoint slide show of the route!