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General Conditions on Jun 25, 2018
Weather was great this past weekend with many people summiting the mountain. Most of them climbing up Avalanche Gulch. The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is an excellent climb on the north side of the mountain out of Northgate Trailhead. If you are seeking solitude then this route is for you. There are many excellent camps on dry ground near 10,000' with running water available. You can hike to camp virtually snow free following the trail from the trailhead and then a climbers' trail the last 1,000'. There is a short snow traverse near the camps. For a description of the route please visit the climbing tab on this website. From camp you can don your crampons and ascend the mountain. You will cross over some short sections of rocks near 11,000' and again between 13,000-14,000'. Look through the photos to get a feel for the current conditions of the route.