03-25-2016-Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch is currently in good condition.  That being said, moderate to strong winds, and increasing clouds on Saturday (March 26th) will create challenging weather limiting visibility and safe travel.  Do not climb into white out conditions. It is quite common for climbers to become disoriented, and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain when above the Red Banks at 12,600 feet.  Ice fall will be another factor to consider as all rock outcroppings at higher elevations are covered in rime ice.  The wind, any daytime warming, and other factors will encourage rime to peel off of rocks and tumble down slope.  Getting hit with a chuck of ice is the same as getting hit with a rock.  They can break bones, knock you off of your feet, and send you tumbling down slope, as well.  If continuous ice fall is encountered, turn around and descend.  The climbing season hasn't really even begun yet, so there is plenty of opportunity to take another shot at the summit later on with safer conditions. Check  the most current avalanche advisory which is published daily on our web site.  YOU WILL NEED: Crampons, Ice axe and a helmet and know how to use them!!  Being a winter ascent, all on snow you will also need an avalanche transceiver, a light weight snow shovel, and a probe...AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM!!!  You will also need stout winter worthy gear and equipment, and some experience with winter camping skill and survival.  You will be on snow for the entire climb. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow.  DO NOT glissade through Red Banks, and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock or ice fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. There are a few options currently to navigate through the Red Banks, so the choice is yours. Stay off the Konwakiton Glacier by ascending either through "the notch", or one of the chutes on the climbers right half of the formation to gain the upper portion of the Red Banks. Descend the same way.

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left unsecured. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is running at the spring at Horse Camp. The toilets are OPEN at Horse Camp also.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.