01-03-2016-Green Butte Ridge

As with Casaval and the other ridge routes on Mt Shasta, prime conditions are when the route is fully snow covered.  Well, that is certainly the case as the mountain is fully snow covered and is a full winter mountaineering objective. There are only a couple bivy sites along the ridge and they are exposed to the elements.  Flat terrain is not too far below the ridge top proper. Many will find camping down in the Old Ski Bowl, east of the ridge, to be much better during any sort of inclement wind events.  That being said, you should not even consider a winter ascent of this route if you do not have a least a solid few days of good weather. The crux of the GB ridge route is before The Thumb and along the "sawtooth" section of the ridge where it joins the Sargents Ridge. Most choose to climb along the west side of the ridge and route-find through rock bands. A few might try the east side of the ridge, though many have been turned back due to very steep traverses. One will notice the high consequence falls down narrow "pin ball" gullies that lead into Mud Creek Canyon and the Konwakiton Glacier area. Move fast and efficiently when climbing this route. Two days is advised, but conditions may warrant three days. Be very careful when traversing the sawtooth portion of the route as long falls are possible into Avalanche Gulch. This route does not see good conditions for long. It is best during the spring time.  Prior winter mountaineering skill and experience are a must.  Have the proper stout winter worthy gear and equipment.  Otherwise, we recommend to wait until next season or choose another route.