It's darn near the middle of June, temps have been warm and climbing conditions mushy. The mountain is beginning to show more and more exposed rock, but all major climbing routes still have decent snow coverage. The snow line around the mountain is roughly 7,000 to 8,000 feet. Rockfall is becoming an increasing hazard. A drastic cooling trend will take place into the weekend of June 15/16. The daytime high temp for Bunny Flat is forecast to be 54 degrees. What!? We will see if that pans out. Nonetheless, temps are cooling which could mean firmer climbing conditions. As for the skiing, it's a smorgasbord out there, though one can still bag over 6,000 vertical feet of turns on most routes, in June! Pretty good. Snow surfaces are a little rough, but smoothish snow can be found.
There is no "cutoff" for the climbing season...rather, conditions progressively get worse as the summer bears on. Once steeper routes melt out, most climbers venture over to lower angle routes like Clear Creek. That said, Bunny Flat and the south and west sides of the mountain continue to be the main thoroughfare. Brewer Creek access is less than 0.5 road miles now, and folks have been starting to head over there. The Northgate and Clear Creek trailheads are fully accessible by vehicle.
Hazards to be aware of with warm temps include rockfall and wet, loose avalanches. Cold related hazards include hard snow, making a slip and fall difficult to self-arrest. Be prepared for slide-for-life conditions (i.e. smooth, firm snow) on the upper mountain in the AM hours. Remember, there can be moments in mountaineering where, one must not fall!
It's been a windy spring, so definitely check the wind forecast before you decide to climb. Wind is dangerous as it can blow you off balance and initiate a fall. Becoming injured in a windy locale on the upper mountain can introduce hypothermia to the scene. Wind is often prevalent above Redbanks, 12,500 feet. Note that Redbanks is NOT almost the top. You still have several more hours of climbing, and then you're only half way. Use Redbanks as a key decision point: what time of day is it, what's the weather like, how are you and your group feeling?
From Bunny Flat, expect to navigate patches of dry ground before finding consistent snow coverage near Horse Camp. Low elevation snow is sun cupped and in rough condition. Ridge routes are melting out fast. Climb them soon, or next year might be best.
Don't summit late in the day. Rockfall and wet loose avalanche hazard increases in the afternoon, the snow becomes very soft and mushy, and if you get hurt, we want daylight hours to come help you! A rescue at night complicates things drastically. Set a turn around time of high noon. Do not glissade on firm snow! Glissading when conditions are too firm is a good recipe for disaster. Consider the conditions, and your skills. Take off your crampons if you choose to glissade, make sure the snow is soft, control your speed.
Please note that what we say, may not be what you encounter. Conditions change on the mountain from day to day. A perfect day can be followed by a dangerous one. Sometimes, the mountain has more teeth. Recognizing hazardous conditions is up to you.
- Ski conditions are decent. Snow is melting fast from Bunny Flat and climbers will have to navigate some patches of dry ground before hitting consistent snow coverage. Lower and middle elevation snow is dirty and sun cupped. Ski down anywhere between 10 and 1. Choose your own adventure by aspect and elevation seeking out the best snow surfaces.
- Access to other trailheads: Brewer 0.5 road miles / Northgate and Clear Creek trailheads are fully accessible.
- Bunny Flat accesses all routes on the south and west aspects, as well as Shastina. Northgate accesses the northern half of Shasta including, the Whitney, Bolum, and Hotlum glaciers. This is a more technical side of the mountain consisting of steep glaciated, terrain with less margin for error.
- Water is available at Horse Camp, and at the 9,800 foot camp on the north side, Hotlum/Bolam route. Other areas will start to show water as snow melts. Otherwise, plan on melting snow, bring extra fuel for this! Water is not available at Bunny Flat.
- Punchy snow conditions are certain on the warm days, especially in the PM hours. Snowshoes are helpful only on the lower half of Shasta, but with enough climbers on the mountain, a decent boot pack is developing. Snowshoes are not essential, and we recommend leaving them behind. Trekking poles are great, we don't go anywhere without them.
- Slide-for-life conditions may be present on the upper mountain. This simply means smooth and firm snow in the mornings. If you slip or trip, and don't immediately self-arrest, you will take a fall down the mountain. Practice self-arrest in soft snow on a slope of non-consequence and without crampons to get your self-arrest with an ice axe dialed. It needs to happen fast, like a cat!
- Wear a HELMET. Seriously. Redbanks and the adjacet rocks of upper Avalanche Gulch are the main suppliers of rockfall. Rocks will tumble down onto climbers below on warm days as we move into summer. Keep your head up, wear your helmet properly, yell, "rock!" to warn climbers below. Rockfall will increase over the next few weeks and months.
- Please don't forget your FREE wag bag(s), provided at all open trailheads. Take pride in keeping a clean mountain environment. Thousands visit Mount Shasta each year. Pay your respect by packing off ALL of your human waste and trash. There is a composting toilet that is OPEN at Horse Camp.
- Lastly, don't forget your REQUIRED ITEMS to climb: summit pass ($25), wilderness permit and human waste packout bag. They are available for self-issue, day or night, at Bunny Flat or the Mt Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations. A electronic fee machine at Bunny Flat has been recently installed. Credit sales are available for 3-day or annual passes. KEEP THE RECEIPT WITH YOU.
Be Prepared
Our goal is to ensure you have a positive wilderness experience and come home in one piece. To do so:
- BE PREPARED
- DO YOUR RESEARCH
- ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET
- KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS.
- CARRY PROPER NAVIGATION TOOLS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM
- REMEMBER, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.
Accidents and Hazards
Many incidents occur on the mountain every season. The most common accidents include rockfall injuries, lost climbers, and slips and falls in steep terrain. Most accidents can be prevented with proper planning and preparation.
- Do not climb into a whiteout. Always carry a map and compass and/or GPS device and route plan ahead of time.
- Keep your group together. If you split up, have a solid plan and make sure everyone has proper equipment and knows the way.
- Do not glissade with crampons on. If you choose to glissade, take OFF your crampons and make sure the snow is soft.
- Know how to self-arrest properly with your ice axe. A slip and fall on the upper mountain can be fatal.
- Wear a helmet and watch out for rockfall. Climbers get hit every year.
With the right knowledge, skill, equipment, and decision-making, these accidents can be easily prevented. Please, wear a helmet, and know how to use your ice axe and crampons any time of the year.
There is always the potential for thunderstorms during the summer months to shroud the mountain in clouds, limiting visibility. Climbers becoming disoriented on the upper mountain in whiteout conditions and subsequently descending the wrong route is not uncommon. These kinds of scenarios have resulted in many searches over the years. It should go without saying, but we will say it as a solid reminder: Check the weather before you go, and continue to monitor the weather as you climb. DO NOT CLIMB INTO A WHITEOUT! Being caught on the mountain in any type of weather can compromise life and limb.
Understand that if something goes wrong or a member of your climbing party gets injured, you need to be prepared to self-rescue. If you have an emergency on the mountain, call 911. Be prepared to provide your location and the nature of the injury.
Many hazards exist in mountain terrain. Some of these include:
- Ice and rockfall
- Altitude
- Extreme weather
- Avalanches
Icefall and rockfall are possible year-round. It's a simple equation: as snow melts, rockfall increases. If rime ice is plastered to exposed rocks above, it will eventually flake off and fall onto climbers. Wear a helmet and keep your eyes upslope as you climb. Pay attention to other climbers: rockfall is often caused by climbers resting in melted out areas and accidentally dislodging rocks onto slopes and climbers below. Be careful not to kick rocks down onto others.
At the height of 14,179 feet, Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak. It is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly. It can quickly develop into a much more serious and potentially deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema. Rest and hydration are vital to alleviating AMS symptoms. If these symptoms do not improve, your only choice is to descend!
Mt Shasta is a 14, 179-foot volcano with steep slopes, avalanches, glaciers, rockfall, altitude, and extreme weather. Some may feel like Mt Shasta is "safe" due to its proximity to Interstate 5 and its "easy" climbing objective connotation. This is false. One should still expect cold, winter-like conditions at any time of year. Have the appropriate gear AND skill level. Mountaineering is dangerous, and climbers must constantly evaluate the terrain, weather, and many other factors to have a safe trip. One should also not expect immediate rescue. Many factors can prolong rescues. Thus, it is necessary, no matter what mountain of the world, that you be prepared.
Mountain Weather
Check the WEATHER FORECAST before coming up onto Mt. Shasta! Our site's main menu hosts numerous resources on the weather. Researching the mountain weather should be an important part of your trip planning.
Clouds and Precipitation: While you may encounter fair weather at lower elevations, cloud caps can form up high. Never climb into a whiteout, as many climbers have become lost or died in similar conditions. Many routes from all aspects of Mt. Shasta converge on the upper mountain (>12,500 feet). During limited visibility conditions, climbers have descended the wrong side of the mountain. Keep an eye on the sky as you climb, turning around if clouds begin to build on or near the mountain.
Lightning: Mt. Shasta is a 14,000-foot lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don't push your luck with building thunderheads.
Wind: Winds can reach over 100 mph at tree line (8,000 ft) and much higher in the alpine region. Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance. Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl. Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and will destroy well-anchored tents. The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere and tend to occur in front of and behind storms. The lowest winds occur when the center of high pressure is over the Mt Shasta area. Take this seriously as the wind has resulted in searches, injuries, and fatalities.
Tips & Notes
Climb early and descend early. This limits exposure to inclement weather (afternoon buildup of clouds is common), allows plenty of time to descend before dark and allows a rescue effort to ensue before dark if one gets injured or lost.
Get an alpine start (2-5 am) and have a turnaround time of 12 to 1 pm. Proper equipment, clothing, and training are a must. Helmets are always recommended and expect rock and ice to fall at any time.
Bring extra warm gear (like a down jacket, balaclava, and extra gloves) in all seasons as climbers often develop superficial frostbite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.
Anchor your tent well wherever you camp. Tents can and do blow away frequently. Do not plan to camp above treeline if you do not have anchor lines for your tent.
Solo climbing is not recommended. Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!
The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for unguided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.
Mountain Rescue
Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its own terms, and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept.
When to Climb
The BEST time to climb Mt. Shasta is usually from May to mid-July on the south and west sides of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years, the thin snowpack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts, you are left with 7,000 feet of scree, talus, and boulders. In heavy snow years, the climbing season extends to August or September. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much safer and more fun on consolidated snow.
A winter climb of Mt. Shasta is possible. Still, it is more difficult and dangerous: extreme weather, short days, avalanches, falling ice and potential post-holing increase the difficulty and danger on all routes. If you choose to travel in the backcountry during the winter and spring, you need to have the proper equipment and training to stay safe. An avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, with the ability to identify avalanche terrain and snow instability, is essential. A climb of Shasta should not be taken lightly.
Every year, many climbers become lost, injured, or killed while attempting Mt. Shasta. Many of these accidents could have been prevented with a bit of pre-planning and training. YOU need to come prepared.
What to Bring
- MANDATORY: wilderness permit, summit pass, human waste pack-out bags. Available for self-issue at all open trailheads.
- THE TEN ESSENTIALS: map and compass, sunglasses and sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife/multi-tool, bivouac sack.
- HELMET, ICE-AXE, & CRAMPONS
- AVALANCHE BEACON, AVALANCHE PROBE, SHOVEL
Wilderness permits, summit passes, and pack-out bags are currently available at Bunny Flat, the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season outdoor store in Mount Shasta City. The Mount Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations are typically open Monday through Friday from 8 to 4:30 PM. Check our climbing regulations for more details.
Winter and Spring months usually see periods of heightened avalanche danger, though this danger could exist in the summer months under the right circumstances. Research the weather and avalanche danger while planning your trip. Have your climbing party bring avalanche beacons, probes, and shovels armed with proficient skills in their use. Know how to identify avalanche terrain and evaluate snowpack stability.
Shasta Alpine Hut
The stone cabin at treeline on the Avalanche Gulch climbing route is open year-round and all are welcome. However, one cannot sleep inside the cabin, except in emergencies. The composting toilet is open for the season and drinking water is available at the spring. Caretakers are present five days a week for the climbing/hiking season. If you plan on camping, there are two dozen dispersed sites on the property, a nominal $3/bivy and $5/tent fee is asked. There is a fee deposit tube inside the cabin. This fragile area gets a lot of use. Please practice Leave-No-Trace principles. Lastly, the property owner, the Sierra Club Foundation, manages its property under the Mt. Shasta Wilderness rules – dogs, horses, and other domestic animals are not allowed. No drones. Thanks!
Dogs
DOGS, AND OTHER DOMESTIC ANIMALS, ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS OR WITHIN THE SIERRA CLUB FOUNDATION PRIVATE PROPERTY (Shasta Alpine Hut).
A winter climb of Mount Shasta is possible, but understand that it significantly raises the stakes. Extreme weather, short days, avalanches, falling ice, and potential post-holing increase the difficulty and danger on all routes.
Bring the proper equipment with the knowledge to use it effectively. This includes:
- Avalanche beacon
- Shovel
- Probe
The ability to use these tools in a rescue, while being able to identify avalanche terrain and snow instability, is absolutely necessary.
Also remember to bring standard winter mountaineering equipment:
- Warm winter clothing
- A robust tent
- Proper navigation tools (electronics fail quickly in cold weather)
- An ice axe and crampons.
DO NOT attempt to climb Mount Shasta without proper training, preparation and research. Despite being 15 minutes off the interstate, Mount Shasta is a real mountain with real consequences.
The road to Bunny Flat Trailhead (6,950 feet) is plowed and open in the winter. The gate to the Old Ski Bowl is closed for the season after November 1st. There are bathrooms, but NO running water or other facilities. Access to other trailheads is dependent on snow cover. All other wilderness trailheads are winterized and closed for the season. You may still access them, but your summit pass, wilderness permit, and human waste pack-out bag must be attained at the ranger station in Mount Shasta or McCloud.
REQUIRED TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: Summit pass ($25 and required above 10,000 feet, even if you don't plan on going to the summit), wilderness permit (free) and human waste pack-out bag. All of these items are available for self-issue at all OPEN trailheads or the Mount Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season store in downtown Mount Shasta. Annual passes are available from The Fifth Season, 300 N. Mount Shasta Blvd as well as the Mount Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations.
Recent updates (6.6.24) from a few routes:
- Northgate-Hotlum/Bolam: Running water is available at the lower 9,800 foot basecamp on the Hotlum/Bolam route, with a few dry camping locations. The snow line is approximately 8,000 foot, but melting fast with the heat wave. There are quite a few trees down along the melted out trail, but easy to get around. Rangers will work on clearing trees soon! Some recent climbers witnessed a large rockfall event off the Hotlum/Bolam ridge on June 5th at about 1315 hours. A couple "very large sprinter van" sized boulders", amongst other large boulders, released off the route and subsequently caused a wet loose snow slide, travelling about 200m, was 75m wide, with debris covering an estimated 500m area.
- Brewer Creek-Hotlum/Wintun: Road access to the trailhead is close. As of 6/15/24 you can drive within 0.5 road milesContinuous snow for skinning can be found near 7,000 feet. Medium sized sun cups are prevalent below 9,000 feet. Mid mountain snow surfaces are decent for skiing. Above ~10,500 feet, ski conditions are marginal with early forming, plate penitentes...thin blades of hardened snow or ice, closely spaced and usually pointing toward the direction of the sun. These conditions are similar to what is being found on the West Face currently, due to strong wind over the Spring.
- Clear Creek: The trailhead is open and vehicle accessible. No recent reports of boots on the ground, but viewed from afar, the route is a mix of snow and rock, though one could stay on continuous, dirty snow if desired. Skiing is not recommended for this route. Unknown if the spring is melted out for water.
All wilderness trailheads except for the Old Ski Bowl and Sand Flat Trailhead are open. The Brewer Creek Trailhead is open and you can drive within 0.5 miles of the trailhead. You may still access the Wilderness via closed trailheads, but your summit pass, wilderness permit and human waste bags must be obtained at the Mt Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. You may self issue day or night. An annual pass must be obtained during business hours.
The climbing season in full swing. Typically, late April, May and June are best, and this year is no exception. It's that time of year when the weather is getting warmer and dryer, but winter-like conditions are still possible. Mount Shasta must not be underestimated, despite being 15 minutes off I-5. CHECK THE WEATHER and be willing to change plans. DO NOT climb into a whiteout! Climbers become lost every year, resulting in lengthy searches. Always carry navigation tools and know how to use them. An ice axe, crampons and helmet is absolutely necessary. Climbers also need to consider the avalanche danger, very cold temperatures with high wind, unpredictable weather patterns and poor visibility, ice/rock fall and variable snow surface conditions. Should you need help, a quick rescue is never guranteed, so be prepared to support yourself and your party in the event of a accident.
Mount Shasta is holding good snow coverage for most routes. Above treeline, climbers and riders will encounter a mixture of conditions. Wind has created many firm and dense surfaces. In some spots surfaces are scoured down to ice and/or rock. Softer snow exists in more protected areas like gullies and depressions. Be prepared for changing conditions and hazards. Lake Helen is in great shape for camping. Be sure to take your trash and waste down with you, it's required. We have a long climbing season ahead. Help us take care of the mountain we all love.
It is REQUIRED to pack out your human waste on Mount Shasta. Please pickup a FREE human waste packout bag at the ranger stations or Bunny Flat before you hit the hill. Respect the mountains and Mother Nature. Learn and practice the 7 Principles of Leave No Trace.
Bunny Flat is one of the busiest places in the Forest and we need your help to keep it clean. We permit camping in the parking lot or just below in the dispersed camping area. There is no water available but we do provide a bathroom. The camping stay limit is 7 consecutive days, and not to exceed 30 days total in the calendar year.
Please read all the information below to educate yourself on general information about what it takes to climb Mount Shasta safely. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to give us a call. We are not always in the office, but will respond as soon as we can: 530-926-9614 or email nicklaus.meyers@usda.gov.
