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Mount Shasta Avalanche and Climbing Information
August 20, 2018
Late season conditions exist on Mount Shasta. Air quality and visibility have been poor due to increased smoke from nearby wild fires. We have not been able to see the mountain from town for days. Climbing conditions on the south and west sides have deteriorated, and climbing the Avalanche Gulch, West Face, Casaval Ridge, Sargent’s Ridge and Green Butte Ridge routes is not recommended due to increased rockfall and low snow.
The routes on the east and north side of the mountain including Clear Creek, Hotlum Wintun and Hotlum Bolam Ridge are in the best shape for climbing at this time. Check out the Climbing tab on our homepage for route descriptions and see the Recent Observations below for current conditions on specific routes.
The gate at Bunny Flat on the Everitt Memorial Highway is open to Panther Meadows, Old Ski Bowl, and South Gate Meadows trailheads. All wilderness trailheads are OPEN and stocked with summit passes, wilderness permits and human waste pack out bags. Please obtain these REQUIRED items for your climb of the mountain. For required item details, click here.
More than a dozen incidents have occurred on the mountain this season. The most common accidents include rockfall injuries, lost climbers, and slips and falls in steep terrain. Most accidents can be prevented with proper planning and preparation.
- Do not climb into a whiteout. Always carry a map and compass and/or GPS device and route plan ahead of time.
- Keep your group together. If you split up, have a solid plan and make sure everyone has proper equipment and knows the way.
- Do not glissade with crampons on. If you choose to glissade, take OFF your crampons and make sure the snow is soft.
- Know how to properly self-arrest with your ice axe. A slip and fall on the upper mountain can be fatal.
- Wear a helmet and watch out for rockfall. Climbers get hit every year.
Understand that if something goes wrong, or a member of your climbing party gets injured, you need to be prepared to self-rescue. If you have an emergency on the mountain, call 911. Be prepared to provide your location and nature of injury.View Full Report
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