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04-09-2017-Casaval Ridge

Climbing Ranger

General Conditions on Dec 31, 1969

Casaval Ridge is in great shape with full winter conditions in effect. It can get VERY windy on this route. Your camp and climb of this route could easily be thwarted during a wind event. Even though the weather may show sun in the box, check the wind forecast if you want to increase the odds of a successful climb of Casaval Ridge. Consider camping at Horse Camp or be sure to anchor your tent very well if windy. On your climb, wind can easily knock climbers off balance and cause a fall. Immediate self-arrest is mandatory to prevent a long slide for life on the smooth and firm snow currently in place on Mt Shasta. If however, you catch this route on a windless, sunny day... you're in for a treat. Once one reaches the top of the ridge, near the base of Misery Hill, it is common for climbers to get disoriented in a "white out" and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain. Know where you are going, don't climb into a whiteout!

 For those who want a challenging, but fun winter ascent of Mount Shasta, this route fits the bill.  This is not a route for the faint of heart, however.  While this route is not technically difficult, Casaval Ridge presents its difficulty by providing exposure to long slips and falls along much of the upper ridge line. It is recommended that one has strong self-arrest skills, route finding, and solid winter mountaineering experience and judgment!  

For your descent, many choose to descend down Avalanche Gulch and then traverse back to their camp along the ridge. This is one option however avalanche danger can be a problem. Eliminate this problem by camping at Horse Camp and descending Avalanche Gulch entirely. The other option is to descend the ridge the way you climbed which can be tedious and slow.