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04-09-2017-Green Butte Ridge

Climbing Ranger

General Conditions on Dec 31, 1969

Winter conditions have brought good snow coverage to Green Butte Ridge and the other ridge routes on Mt. Shasta.  The Green Butte Ridge route is currently in good shape. If you choose to attempt a winter climb wait for a solid weather window and stable snow conditions. Always check the avalanche advisory and carry a beacon, shovel and probe. Solid ice axe, crampon and self arrest skills are a must.

There are only a couple bivy sites along the ridge top which are fully exposed to the elements.  Flat terrain can be found not too far below the ridge top proper. Many will find camping down in the Old Ski Bowl, east of the ridge, to be much better during any sort of inclement weather/wind events. The crux of the GB ridge route is before The Thumb and along the "sawtooth" section of the ridge where it joins the Sargents Ridge. Most choose to climb along the west side of the ridge and route-find through rock bands. A few might try the east side of the ridge, though many have been turned back due to very steep traverses. One will notice the high consequence falls down narrow "pin ball" gullies that lead into Mud Creek Canyon and the Konwakiton Glacier area. Move fast and efficiently when climbing this route. Two days is advised, but conditions may warrant three days. Be very careful when traversing the sawtooth portion of the route as long falls are possible into Avalanche Gulch. This route does not see good conditions for long. It is best during the winter/spring time.  Prior winter mountaineering skill and experience are a must.  Have the proper stout winter worthy gear and equipment.  As with the Casaval Ridge route, many climbers choose to descend Avalanche Gulch. This is a good option.