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General Conditions on Dec 31, 1969
Sargents Ridge is in great shape right now with ample snow and ice coverage. Rangers have been on portions of this route recently. Some post-holing was encountered so best to climb early! Rock formations along the ridge are completely plastered in rime ice. Falling rime ice was a serious concern in some areas. Rangers had to scamper out of the way a few times. This route crosses many avalanche starting zones. Wind slabs and loose wet avalanches can be a concern, pending the weather. Winter and early Spring are the best times of year for this route. It is not for the faint of heart and is best for more experienced mountaineers. To climb this route, the approach is close to four miles from Bunny Flat parking lot to the bottom of the ridge via the snow covered Everitt Memorial Hwy. Most climbers do not choose to climb the ridge in total and most often choose the Green Butte ridge link-up to Sargents Ridge. A climb of Sargents Ridge in total will require at least two to three days to complete the whole climb. Elevation, current weather and time of day will determine the snow conditions. Prior winter camping, winter mountaineering, and winter survival skills are mandatory. Carry a map and compass and know how to use them. Check the current avalanche advisory and mountain weather forecast before attempting a climb making sure you have a solid multi-day good weather window. The crux lies in on the upper portion of the ridge just before The Thumb. This "sawtooth" portion of the ridgeline has most folks route finding through rock bands on the west side of the ridge, but a few bold mountaineers might be able to make a traverse on the east side of the ridge through this section. A horrible looking fall down the east side into the Mud Creek canyon will keep you on your toes.