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08-22-2017-Green Butte Ridge

Climbing Ranger

General Conditions on Dec 31, 1969

Green Butte Ridge is almost entirely free of snow, and conditions are past their prime. If you choose to attempt a summer climb, wait for a clear weather window and beware of loose rock. Solid ice axe, crampon, self arrest, and navigation skills are a must.

There are only a couple bivy sites along the ridge top which are fully exposed to the elements.  Flat terrain can be found not too far below the ridge top proper. Many will find camping down in the Old Ski Bowl, east of the ridge, to be much better during any sort of inclement weather/wind events. The crux of the GB ridge route is before The Thumb and along the "sawtooth" section of the ridge where it joins the Sargents Ridge. Most choose to climb along the west side of the ridge and route-find through rock bands. A few might try the east side of the ridge, though many have been turned back due to very steep traverses. One will notice the high consequence falls down narrow "pin ball" gullies that lead into Mud Creek Canyon and the Konwakiton Glacier area. Move fast and efficiently when climbing this route. Two days is advised, but conditions may warrant three days. Be very careful when traversing the sawtooth portion of the route as long falls are possible into Avalanche Gulch. This route does not see good conditions for long. It is best during the winter/spring time. As with the Casaval Ridge route, many climbers choose to descend Avalanche Gulch. This is a good option.