General Route Description: 

Here is your chance to do what few have done!  It is an odd variation that comes into good climbing condition quickly, and out of condition just as fast.  Perhaps the best reason to ascend this route is to check out the conditions for a ski/board descent on this side of the mountain.  Due to its western exposure and wind scoured surface it does not hold snow well.  The good news is that you can almost always count on a consolidated surface.

It’s not a particularly tough climb or route finding challenge, but is steep enough to take seriously, especially if the scree is not glued tight with snow and ice.  From the base of the Bolam Glacier climb/traverse to the ramp on climber’s left of the Whitney Glacier.  Choose a line that looks best and give’er a shot.  Climbers should budget two full days for this route.

Route Map: 
Summer Conditions Photo: 
Winter Conditions Photo: 

Current Route Conditions

05-31-2017-Bolam/Whitney Ridge

Conditions update by: Climbing Ranger Nick Meyers Shasta-Trinity National Forest

Rangers have not been on this route this year and do not climb it often. The route is currently snow covered, as are most other ridge routes. This route is not climbed often for good reason... there are so many other routes that are better on this side of the mountain and it's often devoid of snow creating for a loose, chossy climb. Perhaps some will find this area of the mountain very intriguing and in good condition at certain times of the year. Send us your report and/or pictures!  Call if you have specific questions. We are happy to answer them as best we can.

NOTE: Pictures below are not current unless noted.

Current Photos:
Bolam Glacier June 29th, 2015
Bolam Glacier June 29th, 2015