General Route Description: 

Most climbers only experience the north corner of the Wintun snowfield, above the glacier proper, while on the Hotlum/Wintun route.  The Wintun Glacier has a lot more to offer the experienced mountaineer.   Getting onto the glacier can be tricky as the mixed snow and loose scree can be unstable.  The south side of the glaciers main body is constricted by the Wintun Ridge.  The resulting jumble of seracs and crevasses is an alpinist’s jungle gym.  This ice fall opens to the broad expanse of the upper glacier and snowfields above.  A steadily angled slope continues up to the summit plateau where the climber can circle clockwise around the summit pinnacle to reach the top.  Late season (fall) offers great ice in the ice fall and onto Wintun Ridge. It's worth a couple of days to explore.

Route Map: 
Summer Conditions Photo: 
Winter Conditions Photo: 

Current Route Conditions

05-31-2017-Wintun Glacier

Conditions update by: Climbing Ranger Nick Meyers Shasta-Trinity National Forest

No current route conditions have been submitted nor have rangers made it onto this route this year.  All the glacier routes are in full winter conditions and looking good! A lot of snow fell on the mountain this winter and glaciers are caked.  As always, be careful of weak snow bridges on warm days. Rangers and the public rarely climb this route. Conditions are likely good, and similar to the other glacier routes. Take photos and submit your report if you get on this route!  If you have detailed questions, give us a call!